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2013–2016 Audi Allroad

2013-2016 Audi Allroad — Brake Pad Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026

🔧🔧🔧 Advanced 1-3 hours $205 DIY

Save $245 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $450

Quick answer: Brake Pad Replacement on a 2013–2016 Audi Allroad is rated Advanced and takes about 1-3 hours. You'll need 7 tools for this job, and parts cost about $205. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$205.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Front or rear brake pad set for 2013-2016 Audi Allroad; verify axle, brake package, and VIN fitment — $180.00
Replacement pad hardware or wear sensor only if the kit requires it — $25.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm axle, parts, and brake condition

FRONT axle (B8). Single-piston sliding calipers; pads sit under an anti-rattle spring — remove it first. Confirm front-axle pads; check rotor thickness vs. minimum stamped on hat. Electric wear sensor on driver's-side pad — disconnect; transfer or replace.

2

Lift and secure the vehicle

Park level; chock the rear wheels. Parking brake holds the rear axle — irrelevant here, but chocks are mandatory. Loosen wheel bolts, raise the front, set car on stands at factory pinch-weld pads behind front wheels. Remove bolts and wheel.

3

Remove the caliper and old pads

Pry off anti-rattle spring (thin flathead); note orientation. Pop caps; pull two glide pins (T45/T40 Torx; some 9mm hex), wiggle out. Disconnect driver's-side wear sensor (14mm bolt). Pry caliper rearward; zip-tie to spring — never by hose. Pull old pads.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I photograph that anti-rattle spring before it comes off. It only goes back one way, and 'roughly right' rattles over every bump.

4

Install pads and hardware

Wire-brush bracket lands; fit stainless clips. Pads in — wear tab as before, shims placed. Compress phenolic pistons (dual-piston spreader) — crack if cocked, so keep square, go slow; watch reservoir. Grease pins (silicone brake grease); seat boots; refit caliper.

5

Torque, pump, and bed in

Reinstall caliper; refit glide pins, caps, anti-rattle spring as removed; reconnect wear sensor. Torque to spec. Refit wheel; torque wheel bolts star-pattern to 120 N-m. Pump pedal until firm; check fluid, warning. Bed pads moderately; no hard braking 150-200 km.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Changing only one pad or mixing pad sets on an axle
  • • Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack
  • • Letting the caliper hang from the brake hose
  • • Forcing a seized piston or ignoring a leaking caliper
  • • Skipping final lug and caliper torque or the bedding procedure