2017–2024 Volvo V90
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $335 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $450
Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2017–2024 Volvo V90 is rated Advanced and takes about 1–2 hours. You'll need 4 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Correct spark plug set for the gasoline/ICE engine in 2017-2024 Volvo V90; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment | — | $115.00 | |
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional | — | $35.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
All 2017–2024 V90s use a 2.0L Drive-E four: T5 (turbo), T6 (turbo + supercharged), T8 plug-in hybrid (2017–2021), B5/B6 mild hybrids (2022+). On T8 cars, stay clear of the thick orange high-voltage cables — this job only touches the 12V ignition system.
The engine cover pulls straight up off its rubber friction mounts — grasp the corners and lift. Note where each mount sits so the cover presses back evenly. Underneath are the four ignition coils on the valve cover.
Each coil is held by a single small bolt and an electrical connector with a sliding lock. Slide the lock back, press the release tab, and unplug the connector from each coil, then remove the bolt and pull the coil straight up out of its well. These coils can stick in the tube after years of heat cycles — twist gently while pulling rather than yanking sideways, which can crack the coil housing. Keep the coils in order.
Twist, don't yank — and pull straight up, not at an angle. I cracked a coil housing once prying sideways with a screwdriver and turned a thirty-minute plug job into a week waiting on a coil.
Blow debris out of plug wells with compressed air. Use a 14mm thin-wall socket on an extension — VEA plugs sit deep in the head. Loosen counterclockwise; if one resists, work it back and forth. Keep old plugs in order to compare cylinder condition.
Buy four plugs specified for your exact engine badge (T5, T6, T8, B5, or B6) and check the gap value in the owner's manual or on the emissions sticker under the hood — never guess it. Verify each plug with a feeler gauge and adjust only the ground strap if needed, leaving the center electrode alone. Thread each plug in by hand first, then tighten with the socket until the washer seats and add roughly a quarter to a half turn. Do not overtighten — these are aluminum heads and the threads strip easily.
Hand-tight first is non-negotiable on aluminum heads — I can tell a cross-threaded plug by the way the ratchet suddenly binds. If it doesn't spin in easy, back it out and start over.
Slide each coil back into its well, making sure it seats fully onto the plug, and reinstall the retaining bolts snugly — they only need to hold the coil in place, not be cranked down. Reconnect the electrical connectors until each sliding lock clicks home. Press the engine cover back down onto its mounts so it sits flat and even, and refit the oil filler cap if you removed it.
Start the engine. Idle and confirm smooth running with no warning lights, drive with steady acceleration — a forgotten coil connector sets a misfire code fast. Log the mileage; iridium plugs are long-life parts.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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