2012–2017 Audi A5
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
Save $118 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $174
Quick answer: Oil and Filter Change on a 2012–2017 Audi A5 is rated Moderate and takes about 45-60 minutes. You'll need 7 tools for this job, and parts cost about $56. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5W-40 full synthetic, VW 502.00 approved (4.9 quarts) | — | $40.00 | |
| Oil filter cartridge with O-ring | — | $16.00 | |
| Drain plug washer | — | — |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Drive the B8.5 A5 for about 5 minutes so the oil warms and flows freely, then park on level ground and shut the engine off. Pop the hood and remove the engine cover — the 2.0T EA888's cartridge filter housing is on TOP of the engine, so the filter is a from-above job. Have a 32mm socket, a T25 Torx driver, VW 502 00 oil, and a drain pan ready.
Loosen the oil filter cap with the 32mm socket — just crack it, don't remove it yet. This breaks the vacuum so oil drains out of the housing and back toward the sump while you work underneath. Leave the cap loose.
I learned this one the hard way — I crack the filter cap with the 32mm socket but don't remove it yet, so the housing drains while I work underneath.
Raise the front onto rated jack stands if you haven't already, and position the drain pan under the sump. Remove the drain plug and let the oil flow until it slows to an occasional drip — give the EA888 a full ten minutes, since its passages hold oil. While it drains, you can head back up top to deal with the filter.
From above, unscrew the loosened filter cap the rest of the way and lift out the old cartridge element. Replace the housing O-ring, not optional. Drop in the new element squarely, then thread the cap back on by hand to avoid cross-threading.
My shop habit: Drop in the new element squarely, then thread the cap back on by hand to avoid cross-threading.
Torque the filter cap to 25 N·m and the sealing cap per the workshop spec — these are plastic threads, so a torque wrench beats guesswork.
Pour in about 4.9 quarts of VW 502 00 5W-40 (or 0W-40) through the filler. Wait two minutes, then check the dipstick; add the last bit gradually against the dipstick, never past the full mark. Start the engine and inspect for leaks at the filter housing up top and the drain plug underneath.
This is the part I see people get wrong: I wait two minutes, then add the last bit gradually against the dipstick — never past the full mark.
Shut the engine off, wait two minutes, and verify the oil level once more — top up in small splashes if needed. Recheck underneath after your first drive for any weep from the housing O-ring.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2012–2017
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2008–2011
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2008–2011
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