2016–2021 BMW M2
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $335 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $450
Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2016–2021 BMW M2 is rated Advanced and takes about 1–2 hours. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Correct spark plug set for the gasoline/ICE engine in 2016-2021 BMW M2; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment | — | $115.00 | |
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional | — | $35.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
All three take six spark plugs. Check your model year and badging before ordering. Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool completely — all three engines have aluminum heads that are easily damaged if plugs are removed while hot.
On the M2 Competition and G87, the charge-air and intake plumbing runs close over the valve cover — you do not need to remove it, work carefully around it.
For hard-to-reach plugs, I use a swivel socket. Fighting the angle is how plugs get cross-threaded. I use dielectric grease on the boot interior. It prevents sticking and moisture intrusion.
Flip up the locking tab on each coil's electrical connector and unplug it, marking each coil to its cylinder. The coils are a friction fit in their wells — grip each one and pull straight up with a firm, steady motion.
Brush or blow debris away from the plug wells before loosening anything. These engines use deep, slightly angled plug tubes, so use a 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket with a universal joint between the socket and extension — this lets the socket articulate and seat squarely on the plug. Loosen each plug and lift it out with the magnetic socket. Inspect the old plugs: heavy carbon buildup or oil fouling can point to running issues worth investigating before the new plugs go in.
Check every new plug's electrode gap against the specification in your owner's manual or on the under-hood emissions sticker — never assume the factory gap is correct for your engine. Use a wire-type feeler gauge; the correct wire should drag lightly between the electrodes. If the gap needs adjusting, bend only the ground strap gently and re-check. Turbocharged engines are sensitive to incorrect gaps, which can cause misfires under boost, so verify all six carefully.
Lower each plug into its well and thread it in by hand until the washer contacts the cylinder head — spinning the extension by hand lets you feel if the threads are starting correctly. Once finger-tight, snug roughly a quarter to a half turn further. Do not overtighten; stripped threads in these heads are costly to fix.
Push each coil firmly down onto its plug until fully seated, reconnect every connector until the locking tab clicks, and refit the engine cover. Check the bay for leftover tools. Start the engine and confirm a smooth idle with no warning lights. Because these are turbocharged engines, take a test drive that includes a few pulls under boost — a misfire under load is the classic symptom of a plug or coil that is not fully seated, and you want to catch it now.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2016–2021
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