Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2015–2022 Chevrolet Colorado is rated Advanced and takes about 1-3 hours. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Correct spark plug set for 2015-2022 Chevrolet Colorado; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment |
— |
$115.00 |
|
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional |
— |
$35.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm engine and plug fitment
Confirm the engine: 2015-2016 V6 Colorados use the 3.6L LFX (ACDelco GM OE Iridium, 0.040" gap); 2017-2022 V6 trucks use the 3.6L LGZ (ACDelco 41-130 iridium - pre-gapped at the factory, do not attempt to re-gap). The 2.5L four-cylinder takes its own iridium plug. Buy six for the V6. Scan for misfire codes first; the Colorado's coils rarely fail, so a code usually points at a worn plug. GM's iridium interval is 100,000 miles; the LGZ's 41-130 is a long-life plug.
2
Cool and expose the plugs
Let the engine cool completely. Remove the plastic engine cover and the air intake tube to expose the coil packs along the top of the 3.6L's valve covers - all six sit in a neat row, with the rear-most plugs the tightest against the cowl. Disconnect the negative battery cable only if your service procedure calls for it. The intake tube uses a worm clamp at the throttle body - a 7mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver fits it.
3
Remove the coils
Unplug each coil connector and remove the 10mm coil bolt, then pull each coil straight up and out of its well. The 3.6L's coil connectors have locking tabs; release the lock fully before squeezing.
4
Remove and install plugs
Remove each old plug with a 5/8" spark-plug socket and extension, working one cylinder at a time. Check the old plugs against the new ones for matching reach, and look for oil fouling that would point to valve-cover tube seals. Start each new plug by hand for several threads, then tighten to the manufacturer's spec in the owner's manual - never use an impact on these aluminum heads. The LGZ's direct injection works the plugs hard; check the ground electrodes for even wear across all six.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I've found that small thing, big difference: Start each new plug by hand for several threads, then tighten to the manufacturer's spec in the owner's manual - never use an impact on these aluminum heads.
5
Reconnect and verify
Put a dab of dielectric grease inside each coil boot, reseat the coils, snug the 10mm bolts, and reconnect every connector. Confirm a steady idle with no check-engine light, then take it for a drive to verify power under load.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Using the wrong plug or assuming a pre-gapped plug needs no verification
- • Blowing debris into an open cylinder or plug well
- • Cross-threading a plug or tightening it without a torque wrench
- • Overusing anti-seize or dielectric grease on the plug threads
- • Mixing coil connectors or ignoring a misfire after reassembly
