2013–2015 Chevrolet Malibu

2013-2015 Chevrolet Malibu — Battery Replacement

🔧 Easy 30-45 minutes $215 DIY

Save $65 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $280

Quick answer: Battery Replacement on a 2013–2015 Chevrolet Malibu is rated Easy and takes about 30-45 minutes. You'll need 4 tools for this job, and parts cost about $215. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost

$215.00

Part Name	Part Number	Price	Buy
Group 47 (H5) AGM battery, 660 CCA	—	$215.00	Amazon

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

Park and open the hood

Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and take the keys out of the ignition. Open the hood. The battery sits in the engine compartment under a black plastic cover; the owner's manual lists it as Battery (Under Cover).

Gear up and stage the new battery

Put on safety glasses and gloves. Set the new Group 47 (H5) battery nearby with its terminals facing the same way as the old one, so you can drop it straight in.

Remove the plastic battery cover

Lift off the plastic cover over the battery and free the battery cables from their retaining clips so they can move.

Disconnect the negative cable first

Loosen the nut on the black negative (-) cable, twist the clamp off the post, and tuck the cable to the side where it cannot touch the terminal. Negative first, always.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I always pull the negative cable first and tuck it where it can't spring back onto the post. One accidental touch while the positive is still connected and you'll get a spark shower and a scare. I've seen a wrench weld itself across both posts.

Disconnect the positive cable

Loosen the nut on the red positive (+) cable the same way and move it aside.

Remove the hold-down bolt

Remove the 13mm hold-down bolt and lift the clamp off the battery.

Lift the old battery out

Lift the old battery straight out of the tray. It weighs about 40 pounds, so lift with your legs and keep it level so acid does not spill.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

Forty pounds doesn't sound like much until you're bent over a fender lifting it straight up without tipping it. I brace my forearms on the fender, lift with my legs, and keep a rag underneath in case any acid weeps out.

Clean the tray and cable ends

Clean the battery tray and the inside of both cable clamps with a wire brush and wipe away any corrosion before the new battery goes in.

Set the new battery in the tray

Set the new Group 47 (H5) battery in the tray in the same orientation, with the positive and negative posts on the same sides as before.

Reinstall the hold-down clamp

Reinstall the hold-down clamp and tighten the 13mm bolt until the battery cannot shift in the tray.

Reconnect positive first, then negative

Connect the positive (+) cable first, then the negative (-) cable. Tighten each terminal nut until the clamp cannot be rotated by hand. Do not force the nut: the soft lead posts crack if over-tightened, and no verified torque figure is published for this car.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I've cracked a lead post by leaning on a terminal nut. Now I snug it with a short wrench and stop the moment the clamp won't twist by hand. A cracked post means a new one, and that's a lesson you only need once.

Replace the cover and test

Replace the plastic battery cover. Start the engine and confirm it cranks normally. A healthy battery reads about 12.6 volts with the engine off. Expect the clock and radio presets to be reset; re-enter them.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Disconnecting the positive cable first. If the wrench touches the body, it shorts the battery.
• Fitting a standard flooded battery in a stop/start car. The 2.5L and Eco Malibus cycle the battery at every stoplight, and a flooded battery dies early under that cycling. Use an AGM battery.
• Buying the wrong group size. The 2013-2015 Malibu takes a Group 47 (H5) battery. A Group 48 (H6) is the 2016 and newer size and will not fit the tray.
• Leaving the hold-down clamp off or loose. A battery that bounces in the tray can short against the hood or crack a terminal.
• Over-tightening the terminal nuts. Lead posts crack and the clamp will never hold again.
• Forgetting that the radio presets and clock reset when the battery is disconnected.
• If auto stop/start still does not work after the swap, the small auxiliary battery on stop/start cars may also be weak. Have it tested before replacing anything else.

Tools You'll Need

Wrench and socket set 13mm socket and ratchet Wire brush Battery terminal cleaner or baking soda and water Safety glasses Gloves Multimeter (optional)

Related Trouble Codes

P0562 P0562 – System Voltage Low

⚠️ Safety First!

• Batteries contain sulfuric acid and give off flammable hydrogen gas. No smoking, sparks, or open flames near the battery.
• Wear safety glasses and gloves. If acid touches skin or eyes, flush with plenty of water.
• On Malibu Eco (eAssist) cars, the trunk holds a 130-volt lithium-ion battery pack with orange high-voltage cables. This guide covers the 12-volt battery only. Never touch the orange cables or the high-voltage pack.
• Always disconnect the negative cable first and reconnect it last. A wrench bridging the positive terminal to the body will short the battery.
• The old battery weighs about 40 pounds. Lift with your legs and keep it upright so acid does not spill.