Quick answer: Battery Replacement on a 2015–2023 Dodge Challenger is rated Moderate and takes about 25–40 minutes. You'll need 3 tools for this job, and parts cost about $140. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Correct group-size battery |
— |
$140.00 |
|
| Terminal cleaner Optional |
— |
$8.00 |
|
| Terminal protectant Optional |
— |
$7.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Get the trunk open on the Challenger
If the battery is stone dead, the electric trunk release will not respond: use the mechanical key blade inside the key fob to unlock the trunk, or fold the rear seatbacks down and reach the interior emergency release from the cabin.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I've found that A stone-dead Challenger has stranded plenty of people at the worst moment. Know where that key blade is before you need it — crawling through folded rear seats to reach the emergency release with a trunk full of groceries is no fun.
2
Remove the threshold plate and felt liner
Clear the trunk. Ease the threshold plate's clips up from one corner, remove it, and lift out the felt liner. Photograph the layout so every cable and the vent hose routing goes back exactly as it was.
3
Disconnect the negative terminal first
Glasses and gloves on. Loosen the black negative clamp with a 10mm wrench, wiggle the cable end off the post, and tuck it aside. Negative first — with the ground broken, the positive post can't short to the body.
4
Remove the positive cable, clamp, and vent hose
Flip up the red cover on the positive terminal, loosen its clamp, and slide the cable off the post; fold it aside clear of everything. Unbolt the hold-down clamp at the battery’s base and remove it. Look along the side of the battery for the small vent hose that routes gases outside the trunk — pull it gently free and keep its routing in mind, because the replacement battery must have this hose reconnected. Lift the old battery out with both hands, keeping it level and your back straight.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
That vent hose is not decoration — it carries hydrogen gas outside the trunk. I've seen guys skip it and the whole trunk smells like rotten eggs within a week. Push it firmly onto the new battery's vent elbow.
5
Clean up and confirm the replacement matches
Wipe out the recess; check for moisture. Wire-brush both cable clamps until they shine and inspect the vent hose for cracks. Compare the new battery to the old — identical terminal positions. A reversed battery arcs violently the moment a cable touches it.
6
Install the battery and reconnect the cables
Lower the new battery in the original orientation; push the vent hose firmly onto its vent elbow. Refit the hold-down until the battery can't rock. Reconnect positive first, negative last. Tug both clamps to confirm seating, then apply dielectric grease or terminal spray.
7
Reinstall the liner and test everything
Start the engine and verify strong cranking, working lights, and a clean dashboard with no new warning lights. For any future jump-start, use the remote posts under the hood — there is no need to dig the battery out of the trunk again.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Cracking the rear threshold plate by prying from the wrong end — start at a corner and work along its clips.
- • Pinching the vent hose under the felt liner when reassembling — the battery must vent outside the trunk.
- • Reconnecting the cables before the hold-down is snug — the battery shifts in the trunk well under hard acceleration and braking.
