2015–2023 Dodge Challenger

2015-2023 Dodge Challenger — Engine Air Filter Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧 Easy 10–15 minutes $35 DIY

Save $75 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $110

Quick answer: Engine Air Filter Replacement on a 2015–2023 Dodge Challenger is rated Easy and takes about 10–15 minutes. You'll need 2 tools for this job, and parts cost about $35. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost

$35.00

Part Name	Part Number	Price	Buy
Engine air filter for 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger; verify engine, housing shape, and VIN fitment	—	$35.00	Amazon

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

Find the airbox at the front of the bay

Park level, engine off and cool, open the hood. The airbox is the big black box at the front-right (passenger side), snorkel running forward to the grille. Same setup for 3.6L V6, 5.7L, 6.4L — and the same filter fits 2011+ Charger and 300.

Remove the front screws — the back is held by tabs

The lid's back edge sits in tabs; the front edge is screwed. Remove the front screws and stash them somewhere safe — they're small and love disappearing into the bay.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

Put those screws in a magnetic tray, not your pocket — I've fished too many out of engine bays with a magnet.

Squeeze the lid off its rear tabs

Screws out: squeeze the lid forward off its rear tabs and lift. Firm but patient wiggling — don't crack the tabs. Lift the old filter from the lower box.

Clean the box and inspect the tabs

Vacuum or wipe the lower box — grit collects at the front. Wipe the lid's underside, check its gasket. Inspect the rear tabs for cracks while the lid's off; they're the weak point.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

Those rear tabs are the whole job's weak point — I've learned if one is already cracked, the lid will never seal right, so I replace it before it whistles.

Drop in the new filter flush

Drop the new filter into the lower box. Make sure it sits flush at the edges all the way around — a filter that's riding up on one side will whistle and leak unfiltered air.

Hook the rear tabs first, then the screws

Slide the lid's rear tabs into their slots first — squeeze, press, keep it square — then run the front screws in and snug. Confirm the lid sits flush with no seam gaps.

Start it and listen

Start the engine and let it idle. No warning lights should appear. Take a short drive, then pop the hood and confirm the lid is still tight and flush.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Losing the small front screws into the engine bay
• Forcing the rear tabs and cracking them instead of squeezing the lid in squarely
• Setting the filter in crooked so it rides up and whistles
• Not seating the intake snorkel fully on the box after reassembly

Tools You'll Need

Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket (front lid screws) Shop vacuum or rag Magnetic parts tray (those screws are escape artists)

Related Trouble Codes

P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1) P0101 Mass Airflow Sensor Range/Performance P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)

⚠️ Safety First!

• Work on a cold engine
• You don't need to unplug the MAF for this job — just lift the lid enough to swap the filter, and never touch the sensor element inside the intake tube