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2011–2023 Dodge Charger

2011-2023 Dodge Charger — Engine Oil & Filter Change

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧🔧 Moderate 30-60 minutes $57 DIY

Save $63 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $120

Quick answer: Engine Oil & Filter Change on a 2011–2023 Dodge Charger is rated Moderate and takes about 30-60 minutes. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $57. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$57.00
Oil spec 3.6L V6
Capacity 6.0 qt with filter Viscosity 5W-20 Spec MS-6395
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Engine Oil (5W-20) — $45.00
Correct engine oil filter and drain-plug washer for 2011-2023 Dodge Charger — $12.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm oil specification and make the vehicle safe

The 2011-2023 Charger's 3.6L Pentastar takes 6 US quarts of 5W-20 meeting Chrysler MS-6395. The filter is a CARTRIDGE under the engine cover on TOP of the engine — but there's a year split that matters: 2011-2013 uses one cartridge design, while 2014 and later uses Mopar 68191349AB after Chrysler switched to a variable-displacement oil pump. The wrong filter can cause oil-pressure problems, so buy strictly by your model year. Park level, brake set, wheels chocked. The Pentastar is one of the most common V6s ever built — parts are everywhere and cheap.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

The Charger has a year split on the cartridge design — 2011-2013 versus 2014 and up — so I confirm the year before I open the box. Six quarts of MS-6395 5W-20; the wrong cartridge doesn't seat and announces it with a weep.

2

Warm briefly and protect the work area

Warm the engine 2-3 minutes. Remove the engine cover to expose the filter housing, and remove the skid plate (4x 10mm bolts) for access underneath. Gather a 24mm socket for the housing cap, 13mm socket for the drain plug, drain pan, funnel, gloves, and the correct-year cartridge with fresh O-ring. The engine cover pulls straight up off its grommets — don't pry it sideways.

3

Drain the used oil and replace the filter

Remove the 13mm drain plug (about 20 ft-lb on reinstall) and drain the sump. Up top, remove the 24mm housing cap and swap the cartridge element with a fresh O-ring. Reseat the cap evenly; don't overtighten the plastic.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I pull the 13mm plug while the Pentastar drains, then open the 24mm housing cap up top — the cartridge swap happens in parallel. Reseat the cap evenly and don't overtighten; the threads are the weak link here.

4

Install the correct oil quantity

Reinstall the drain plug by hand first, then tighten to about 20 ft-lb and wipe clean. Pour in 6 quarts of 5W-20 MS-6395 through a funnel, adding the last quart slowly. Replace the oil cap and refit the skid plate and engine cover.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I start the Charger's plug by hand, torque it to about 20 ft-lb, then pour the six quarts with the last one slow. Hand-starting the plug on the Pentastar's pan threads is the move that prevents a stripped-pan Sunday.

5

Check level, leaks, and service reminder

Start the engine, idle a minute, and check for leaks at the housing and plug. Shut off, wait a few minutes, and confirm the dipstick reads full. Confirm the gauge reads 100% afterward.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Using the wrong viscosity, capacity, or filter
  • • Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack
  • • Reusing a crushed drain-plug washer or leaving the old filter gasket stuck
  • • Over-tightening the filter or drain plug
  • • Starting the engine without first verifying oil was added