2007–2011 Honda CR-V
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $175 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $300
Quick answer: Ignition Coil Replacement on a 2007–2011 Honda CR-V is rated Moderate and takes about 1 hour. You'll need 3 tools for this job, and parts cost about $125. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
The options below are alternatives for the same part — you only need to buy one. Pick the one that matches your year and engine.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ignition coil, Honda 30520-PNA-007 (2007-2009, K24Z1) | 30520-PNA-007 | $79.31 | |
| Ignition coil, Denso 099700-070 (2007-2009, K24Z1; Denso is the OEM supplier) | 099700-070 | — | |
| Ignition coil, Denso 673-2301 (2007-2009, K24Z1; aftermarket box) | 673-2301 | $83.99 | |
| Ignition coil, NGK 48922 / U5099 (2007-2009, K24Z1) | 48922 | $85.49 | |
| Ignition coil, Standard UF311 (2007-2009, K24Z1) | UF311 | $27.79 | |
| Ignition coil, Duralast C1382 (2007-2009, K24Z1) | C1382 | $73.99 | |
| Ignition coil, Honda 30520-R40-007 (2010-2011, K24Z6) | 30520-R40-007 | $73.04 | |
| Ignition coil, Denso 099700-147 (2010-2011, K24Z6; Denso is the OEM supplier) | 099700-147 | — | |
| Ignition coil, NGK 48980 (2010-2011, K24Z6) | 48980 | $65.99 | |
| Ignition coil, Standard UF602 (2010-2011, K24Z6) | UF602 | — | |
| Ignition coil, Duralast / Wells C1662 (2010-2011, K24Z6) | C1662 | — |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Compare the options above and order the one that matches your vehicle — you only need one.
Follow these steps carefully
Open the hood and remove the plastic engine cover over the valve cover area. Fastener type varies by car, so match what you see: it may lift off clips or grommets.
This guide covers two engine generations: 2007-2009 uses the K24Z1 engine and 2010-2011 uses the K24Z6, and they take different coils, so check your model year before ordering parts.
Press the release tab on each coil's electrical connector and pull it straight off. Do this for each coil you are replacing.
I disconnect the CR-V coil connectors and I study the locks — on reinstall each one gets pushed firmly home until it clicks. I have diagnosed a misfire that was only a connector the last guy did not seat.
Remove the single 10mm-head bolt holding each coil. If you are diagnosing a misfire, keep track of which coil came from which cylinder.
Pull each coil straight up and out, twisting slightly if the boot sticks to the plug. Inspect the boot for cracks or carbon tracking, and look for oil in the plug well. Oil in the well points to a leaking valve cover or spark plug tube seal, not a coil failure.
I pull the CR-V coils out — and I check for oil in the plug wells twice: once now, and once after the first drive. I have seen a tube seal weep only after a heat cycle.
While a coil is out, the spark plug is accessible, which makes this a natural time to inspect or replace plugs. Use a 5/8-in (16mm) spark plug socket. Factory plug gap is 1.1mm (0.043 in). Tighten plugs snug per the seating instructions on the plug box; no verified torque spec is published, so do not overtighten the aluminum head.
I service the CR-V plugs while I am in there for the coils, and I torque every one — the K24 head is aluminum and I have helicoiled a plug hole that someone tightened by feel. I do not skip the wrench.
Seat each new coil fully onto its plug, reinstall the 10mm hold-down bolt snug, and reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks. No verified torque spec is published for the hold-down bolts, so do not overtighten.
Repeat for any remaining coils, then reinstall the engine cover.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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