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1997–2002 Hyundai Tiburon

1997-2002 Hyundai Tiburon — Engine Air Filter Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 19, 2026

🔧 Easy 15-25 minutes $35 DIY

Save $75 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $110

Quick answer: Engine Air Filter Replacement on a 1997–2002 Hyundai Tiburon is rated Easy and takes about 15-25 minutes. You'll need 1 tool for this job, and parts cost about $35. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$35.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Engine air filter for 1997-2002 Hyundai Tiburon; verify engine, housing shape, and VIN fitment — $35.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Open the hood

Know your generation: 1997–2001 cars are the first-generation RD1 (1.8L or 2.0L), while 2002 is the start of the second-generation GK — both use a clip-style lidded box, but the bay layout changed, so don't mix up parts between them.

2

Unplug the intake-air-temp sensor

Keep the grommet with the sensor; it seals the sensor's hole, and losing it leaves an air leak. Don't yank the wiring — the harness is short and the connector tabs get brittle with age.

3

Unclip the airbox lid

They can be stiff after years of heat cycles, so work them one at a time and keep a thumb on the lid so it doesn't snap down on your fingers when the last clip releases.

4

Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body

Follow the intake tube to the throttle body and loosen its hose clamp with a flat-blade screwdriver or an 8mm socket — you don't need to remove the clamp, back it off enough to free the tube.

5

Lift the lid

Lift the lid up and out of the way, noting which way the old panel filter sits — the pleats face a specific direction and the rubber frame drops into a channel in the lower half.

6

Re-seat the lid and re-clip it

Flip each metal spring clip back over the lid's lip and make sure every one is fully engaged; a half-latched clip pops loose the first time you hit a bump.

7

Run the engine and check the seal

Reconnect anything else you loosened, then start the engine and listen for whistling or a rough idle, which means the lid isn't sealed or the IAT sensor isn't plugged in.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I always check this before I pick up a wrench: Listen for that whistle or rough idle at startup — on the Tiburon it almost always means the IAT sensor didn't get plugged back in. Check the connector before you start chasing anything else.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Forgetting to plug the intake-air-temp sensor back in, which causes a rough idle and a check-engine light
  • • Leaving one spring clip half-latched so the lid rattles open on the road
  • • Losing the rubber ATS grommet for the sensor and leaving an air leak in the lid