2018–2024 Jeep Wrangler
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
Save $122 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $150
Quick answer: Coolant Flush on a 2018–2024 Jeep Wrangler is rated Moderate and takes about 2–3 hours including flush cycles. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $28. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Coolant (spec type and quantity) | — | $28.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Never open a hot cooling system — pressure blows scalding coolant out. This covers the 3.6L Pentastar JL (2018+); the 2.0L turbo's system differs and often needs a vacuum fill to bleed. Park level, engine cold, parking brake set, gloves and glasses on.
Place a drain pan under the radiator's drain valve and remove the coolant reservoir cap at the back of the engine bay to let air in. Open the drain valve and catch the old coolant as it flows out. If the valve is seized shut, disconnecting the lower radiator hose drains the radiator just as well.
Close the drain valve, refill with clean water, and idle with the heater on full hot until the upper hose gets hot — the thermostat opening lets water circulate through the whole system. Shut down, cool fully, and drain again.
Snug the drain valve closed and inspect the radiator hoses, heater hoses, and clamps while the system is empty. JL underhood hoses see a lot of heat and dust — replace anything soft, swollen, or cracked before refilling, not after.
Fill slowly through the reservoir with the coolant in your owner's manual. Unlike the older JK, the JL 3.6 has no bleed screw by the thermostat, so pour gradually and squeeze the upper hose repeatedly to work trapped air toward the reservoir as you fill.
In my experience, Don't hunt for a bleed screw that isn't there — the JK had one by the thermostat and the JL doesn't. Pouring slowly and working the upper hose is the whole bleed procedure on these.
Cap off, idle with the heater on full hot, squeezing the upper hose and topping off as the level drops. Temp gauge climbing or a cold heater means air is still trapped — cool down and repeat.
From my bay, The giveaway for trapped air on a JL is the heater going cold at idle and hot when you rev it. That's air, not a bad water pump — don't let anyone sell you one.
After the drive, cool down and recheck the reservoir, topping off over the next couple of days — JL systems keep burping air pockets. Seal old coolant in containers and drop it at a parts store or hazardous-waste site; its sweet taste is lethal to pets and wildlife.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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