Prep the Jeep for a clean job
Confirm oil weight and capacity from your manual and filler-cap stamp before buying. Pop the hood. Warm the engine 5–10 minutes; park on level ground, brake set, wheels chocked.
2018–2024 Jeep Wrangler
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 19, 2026
Save $48 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $90
Quick answer: Oil Change on a 2018–2024 Jeep Wrangler is rated Moderate and takes about 30-45 minutes. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $42. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine Oil (0W-20) | — | $30.00 | |
| Oil filter | — | $12.00 | |
| Drain plug washer | — | — |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Confirm oil weight and capacity from your manual and filler-cap stamp before buying. Pop the hood. Warm the engine 5–10 minutes; park on level ground, brake set, wheels chocked.
Twist the fill cap open and leave it resting in the neck so the crankcase breathes and oil drains faster. Find the oil pan; the drain plug faces down toward the rear. If you lift it, use rated jack stands on the frame rails — never a lone jack.
Fit a 13 mm socket on the drain plug (half-inch works too) and turn counter-clockwise to break it loose, then finish unscrewing by hand while pushing inward so the plug does not drop into the hot oil. Pull it away quickly when the last thread lets go to keep the splash contained. Let the pan drain until the stream becomes a slow drip — give it a full ten minutes. Wipe the plug clean and inspect its threads; the threads in the oil pan are aluminum and strip easily, so plan to thread it back by hand first and only then snug it with the socket to the manual’s spec.
Fit a 15⁄16-inch (24 mm) socket with an extension on the cap's hex and turn counter-clockwise. Unthread the last turns by hand, lift straight up, and set cap-down on a protected surface.
Pull the old cartridge straight off the cap — it snaps on and off. Press the new cartridge onto the cap until it clicks, and compare old and new side by side to confirm the size and shape match. Also fish the old O-ring from its groove and wipe it clean — leftover grit or rubber will cause a leak.
Lower the cap and cartridge straight into the housing, keeping it upright. Start the threads by hand until the cap seats — cross-threading the plastic is easy, so back off and restart if you feel resistance.
Tighten the filler cap, wait a minute, then check the dipstick — top up slowly until the level sits between the marks. Start the engine, idle a minute, and confirm the filter housing and drain plug are dry underneath.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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