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2007–2013 Mini Cooper

2007-2013 Mini Cooper — Oil and Filter Change

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 19, 2026

🔧 Easy 30-60 minutes $85 DIY

Save $89 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $174

Quick answer: Oil and Filter Change on a 2007–2013 Mini Cooper is rated Easy and takes about 30-60 minutes. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $85. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$85.00
Oil spec 1.6L I4
Capacity 4.4 qt with filter Viscosity 5W-30 (alt: 0W-30)
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Engine oil filter cartridge — $17.00
Oil filter housing O-rings — $23.00
Drain plug crush washer — $1.00
Full synthetic 5W-30 engine oil — $44.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Warm the engine and secure the car

Start the engine for two to three minutes so the oil thins and drains faster, then switch it off. Park on level ground, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.

2

Raise the front and position the drain pan

Jack up the front of the Cooper and lower it securely onto jack stands placed at the factory jacking points. Slide the oil drain pan under the engine sump, centered on the drain plug.

3

Remove the drain plug and drain the oil

Using the 8mm Allen socket, loosen the oil drain plug at the bottom of the sump and finish removing it by hand. Wipe the plug clean and inspect its threads for damage.

4

Refit the drain plug with a new crush washer

Fit a new crush washer onto the drain plug; the old one compresses and will not seal twice. Thread the plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten it firmly with the Allen socket.

5

Open the oil filter housing

From above the engine bay, locate the black plastic oil filter housing cap on the 1.6L engine. Fit the 27mm socket and loosen the cap, then lift it out with the old cartridge filter attached.

6

Install the new filter cartridge and O-rings

Pull the old cartridge off the cap and press the new filter cartridge firmly into place. Replace the large O-ring on the cap and the small O-ring on the drain nipple, lightly coating them with fresh oil.

7

Reinstall the filter housing cap

Lower the cap with the new cartridge into the housing and thread it on by hand until it seats. Tighten it snugly with the 27mm socket without over-torquing the plastic.

8

Refill with fresh engine oil

Lower the car back to level ground and remove the oil filler cap on the valve cover. Using the funnel, pour in fresh full-synthetic 5W-30 oil, starting with about four quarts.

9

Check the level and top off

Wait a minute for the oil to settle, then pull the dipstick, wipe it, reinsert it fully, and read the level. Add small amounts until the level sits at the full mark without going over.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I add oil in small amounts to the full mark — I've overshot before and had to drain fresh oil out, which is the most annoying kind of waste.

10

Reset the oil service indicator

With the engine off but the ignition on, use the trip/BC button on the turn-signal stalk to scroll to the oil service menu. Hold the button to enter reset mode and confirm, which clears the service reminder.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Forgetting to replace the drain plug crush washer, which causes a slow drip afterward.
  • • Over-tightening the plastic oil filter housing cap and cracking it.
  • • Pouring in oil without checking the dipstick, leading to overfilling.
  • • Not resetting the oil service indicator, so the reminder stays on.