Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 1995–1999 Dodge Neon is rated Advanced and takes about 30–60 minutes. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Correct spark plug set for the gasoline/ICE engine in 1995-1999 Dodge Neon; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment |
— |
$115.00 |
|
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional |
— |
$35.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm the 2.0L engine and coil-pack layout
One coil pack on the head's front feeds four plug wires to plugs buried in the cam-cover wells (waste-spark). Buy four copper-core plugs for your model year, let the engine cool fully, and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2
Lift off the intake resonator covering the plugs
Twist off the wing nut on the resonator's left side and lift the resonator up and out; it feels like it's breaking as it releases, but it just pulls free, exposing the four plug wires in the wells.
3
Remove the plug wires one at a time
One wire at a time so the firing order can't get mixed up. Grasp each wire by its boot, never the cable, and pull it off the plug, then the coil tower. Note which numbered tower each wire came from.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
My shop rule: one wire at a time is the whole religion on a waste-spark engine — pull all four and you're guessing at the firing order. Boot, not cable: yanking the cable separates the wire inside the boot and you'll never see the break.
4
Remove the old plugs from the deep wells
Blow debris from each plug well, then use a 5/8-inch plug socket with a rubber insert on a long extension to break each plug loose and lift it out. Keep the old plugs in order for comparison.
5
Gap-check and hand-install the new plugs
Gap-check each new plug against the owner's manual, adjusting only the ground strap. Thread each plug in by hand until finger-tight, then snug it a quarter to a half turn more after the washer seats; the aluminum head strips easily.
6
Seat the wires and refit the resonator
Seat each new wire boot on its plug and matching coil tower. If the old wires are original or cracked, replace the set; tired wires cause most fresh misfires. Refit the resonator, tighten the wing nut, reconnect the battery.
7
Verify the idle and note the copper-plug interval
Start the engine and confirm a steady idle, then check smooth acceleration on a drive. A misfire means recheck every boot is on the right plug and tower. Note the mileage; copper-core plugs are a shorter interval than platinum.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Pulling a plug wire by the cable instead of the boot — the wire separates inside and you get a new misfire from a damaged wire.
- • Swapping the wire order on the coil pack towers. The towers are numbered, so match each wire back to its own tower.
- • Dropping a new plug down the well instead of lowering it in the socket, which closes the gap on impact.