1995–1999 Dodge Neon

1995-1999 Dodge Neon — Engine Air Filter Replacement

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧 Easy 10–15 minutes $35 DIY

Save $75 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $110

Quick answer: Engine Air Filter Replacement on a 1995–1999 Dodge Neon is rated Easy and takes about 10–15 minutes. No tools are required for this job, and parts cost about $35. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost

$35.00

Part Name	Part Number	Price	Buy
Engine air filter for 1995-1999 Dodge Neon; verify engine, housing shape, and VIN fitment	—	$35.00	Amazon

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

Spot the big plastic cover

Park on level ground, switch the engine off, and pop the hood. No tools are needed for any of this.

Twist off the wing nut

Twist it off by hand — it should come free easily — and put it somewhere safe like a cup holder. This one fastener is all that holds the cover down.

Lift the cover away

Lift the big plastic cover straight up and out. Set the cover aside flat, top-side up, where it will not get stepped on or cracked.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I tell every DIYer this: that crackling, breaking feeling when the cover releases is normal — it just pulls free of the housing. Don't baby it; a hesitant wiggle is what actually cracks the plastic.

Stay gentle around the sensors

The filter housing is at the back of the bay. Work gently around any sensor wiring plugged into the intake duct — ease connectors rather than yanking them, and never touch a sensing element with your fingers. There is nothing to unplug for this job if you are careful.

Pull the old filter

Lift the old filter element out of the housing, noting exactly which way round it sits — which face is up and which edge leads. If it is stuck with age and grit, work it free gently with a flathead rather than tearing the media and leaving bits behind.

Clean the housing and fit the new filter

Wipe or vacuum the empty housing, clearing dust and leaves without pushing anything toward the intake opening. Drop the new filter in the same orientation as the old one, with its sealing edge flat and even all the way around so no unfiltered air can sneak past.

Refit the cover and wing nut

Set the big plastic cover back over the engine so it reconnects to the air filter housing — it should drop into place with a solid feel, not perch crookedly. Refit the wing nut at the lower-left corner and tighten it snugly by hand. Close the hood, start the engine, and confirm it idles smoothly with no rattling from the cover.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Losing the single wing nut — without it the big cover rattles, lifts at speed, and lets debris straight at the filter housing.
• Setting the removed cover down on its sealing edge and cracking it — lay it flat, top-side up, somewhere it will not get stepped on.
• Forcing the cover back on when it will not sit — the filter underneath is not seated properly; reseat the filter instead of muscling the cover.

Tools You'll Need

Clean rag or shop vacuum Flathead screwdriver (only if the old filter sticks)

Related Trouble Codes

P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1) P0101 Mass Airflow Sensor Range/Performance P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)

⚠️ Safety First!

• Let the engine cool before you start — the exhaust manifold runs right beside the filter housing on the 2.0L.
• Do not run the engine with the cover or filter removed; debris can drop into the open housing and a backfire can spit flame.