Quick answer: Starter on a 2015–2020 Ford F-150 is rated Advanced and takes about 1-2 hours (longer on 4x4 models). You'll need 7 tools for this job, and parts cost about $110. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Starter motor |
— |
$110.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm it is the starter
Turn the key and listen. Rapid machine-gun clicking almost always means a weak battery or a corroded terminal — check and load-test the battery before ordering a starter. Also confirm the transmission is fully in Park.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
Rapid machine-gun clicking is almost always the battery, not the starter — I load-test before ordering anything. And confirm it's fully in Park; I've seen 'dead starters' that were just a shifter a hair out of Park.
2
Disconnect the negative battery terminal
The starter B+ cable is live at all times, and the cramped under-truck area lets a slipping wrench bridge the cable to the frame. Disconnect the negative battery terminal now and isolate the cable end so it cannot swing back onto the post — don't disconnect any starter wiring until that is done.
3
Raise the truck and find the starter
Raise the front of the truck on ramps or jack stands — a lift is ideal if you have access. Remove the underbody shields and the transmission dust cover blocking your view, and photograph the cable routing before you unbolt anything.
4
Disconnect the starter wiring
Photograph the wiring first. Remove the B+ nut first and tuck the cable aside so the terminal cannot touch the block, then disconnect the small wire.
5
Unbolt the starter — 4x4 owners read this
Remove the starter mounting bolts with extensions from below. Critical tip for 4x4 trucks: the starter hits the motor mount on the way out and will not clear it. Loosen the two 21mm motor mount nuts closest to the starter, place a floor jack with a block of wood under the bellhousing, and raise the engine just enough — a small amount of lift is all it takes — then pull the starter forward, up and toward the passenger side to work it out. Keep fingers clear of pinch points while the engine is jacked.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I've found that the 4x4 starter-versus-motor-mount fight is the whole job on these trucks — loosen those two 21mm nuts and jack the engine just enough to sneak the starter past. A small lift does it; don't go heaving the engine skyward.
6
Install the new starter
Slide it back in through the same path, start both bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading, and tighten evenly. If you jacked the engine, lower it back down and retighten the motor mount nuts.
7
Reassemble and test
Reconnect the negative battery terminal and tighten the clamp. Crank the engine — it should spin briskly and engage cleanly. Take a short drive, then re-check under the truck for loose hardware and confirm the 4x4 motor mount nuts are tight.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Forcing the starter past the motor mount on a 4x4 without loosening the mount nuts, and cracking the starter nose or the mount bracket.
- • Condemning the starter for rapid clicking — on the 13th-gen F-150 that almost always means a weak battery or a corroded terminal, not a dead motor.
- • Forgetting to photograph the cable routing before disassembly, then guessing which wire goes on the solenoid's small terminal versus the B+ stud.
