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2016–2022 Honda Pilot

2016-2022 Honda Pilot - Spark Plug Replacement

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧🔧 Moderate 45-90 minutes $41 DIY

Save $139 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $180

Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2016–2022 Honda Pilot is rated Moderate and takes about 45-90 minutes. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $41. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$41.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Spark plugs (correct heat range) — $35.00
Dielectric grease — $6.00
New plenum gasket — —

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm engine and plug fitment

The 2016-2022 Pilot runs the 3.5L J35Y6 V6 with VCM cylinder deactivation, and its factory plug is the NGK laser iridium (stock 95350, the actual OE manufacturer part), pre-gapped at 0.044 in (1.1 mm).

2

Cool and expose the plugs

Let the J35Y6 cool completely; the heads are aluminum. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the plastic engine cover. The three front coils are right there on the front valve cover, each with a connector and a single 10 mm bolt — the easy half. The three rear coils sit against the firewall UNDER the intake plenum, and the plenum has to come off to reach them: label every vacuum hose, PCV hose, and connector on it, unbolt it, and lift it off, stuffing clean rags into the open intake ports. Budget a new plenum gasket.

3

Remove the ignition coils

Do the front bank first: squeeze each coil connector's tab, pull it straight off, remove the 10 mm coil bolt, and lift each coil straight up, keeping them in order. Then remove the three rear coils the same way once the plenum is off.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I've watched people get this wrong: Inspect each coil boot for cracks and carbon tracking — VCM misfires eat boots.

4

Remove and install plugs

Remove each old plug with a 5/8 in (16 mm) spark plug socket with a rubber insert, turning counterclockwise — the insert fishes each plug out of its deep well. Compare each old plug's reach to the new NGK 95350; they must match. Read the old plugs too: heavy oil fouling on the rear bank is the classic VCM signature. Verify the 0.044 in gap on every new plug even though they're pre-gapped; never pry on the fine iridium electrode. Thread each new plug in BY HAND for several turns, then tighten to the manufacturer's spec in your owner's manual. No impact, no anti-seize on these plated threads.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I've been burned by this before: Verify the 0.044 in gap on every new plug even though they're pre-gapped; never pry on the fine iridium electrode.

5

Reconnect and verify

Press each coil firmly onto its plug until it seats, refit the 10 mm bolts, and reconnect every connector until the tabs click. Reinstall the intake plenum with its new gasket, torquing the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern, and reconnect every hose and connector you labeled — a forgotten vacuum hose means a lean code. Refit the engine cover and battery cable. Start the Pilot, confirm a smooth idle, drive it through some VCM-activation cruising, then rescan for codes.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Cross-threading the plug in the head
  • • Skipping the torque wrench / overtightening
  • • Wrong gap or heat range for the engine
  • • Mixing up ignition coil connectors by cylinder