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2018–2024 Jeep Wrangler

2018-2024 Jeep Wrangler — Engine Air Filter Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026

🔧 Easy 15–20 minutes $35 DIY

Save $75 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $110

Quick answer: Engine Air Filter Replacement on a 2018–2024 Jeep Wrangler is rated Easy and takes about 15–20 minutes. You'll need 2 tools for this job, and parts cost about $35. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$35.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Engine air filter for 2018-2024 Jeep Wrangler; verify engine, housing shape, and VIN fitment — $35.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Pop the hood

Park level, shut the engine off, and let it cool — the exhaust routing runs close to the intake side on the 3.6L. Set the new filter somewhere clean.

2

Unclip the lid and pull the two bolts

The lid is held by four metal spring clips around its edge — flip all four open with your fingers. Then, unlike most airboxes, this one also has two 10mm hex bolts holding the housing; back those out with a 10mm socket and ratchet and set them somewhere they cannot roll away. Do not skip the bolts — the lid will not come free with them in, and prying against them cracks the bolt bosses.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

Those two 10mm bolts are the Jeep's trap — every other airbox is clips-only, so people muscle the lid and crack the plastic bosses. I always flip the four clips first, then hunt the bolts before the lid moves at all.

3

Lift the lid and pull the old filter

Lift the lid straight up and off. Pull the old filter out — on a Wrangler that's seen dirt roads, the pleats pack with fine dust fast. You may need to pop the plastic engine cover off its grommets to get the lid fully clear.

4

Clean out the housing

Vacuum or wipe out the lower housing, especially the rim the filter seals against. Check the intake-tube opening for debris too, and make sure none of your removed hardware fell into the box before the new filter goes in.

5

Set the new filter in its one correct orientation

Press evenly and confirm no rocking and no seal folded under. If it doesn't sit flat, it's rotated wrong.

6

Bolt it down and re-clip all four clips

Set the lid back on squarely. Run the two 10mm bolts back in and snug them — firm, not gorilla-tight, since the bosses are plastic. If a clip is hard to close, the lid isn't seated right; don't force it, lift and reseat instead.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

A clip that fights you is telling you the lid's crooked. I've watched people force a clip and split the lid's lip — lift the lid off, set it square, and the clips close with a fingertip.

7

Start it and listen for buzzing or whistling

Start the engine and idle. Listen for whistling or buzzing from the airbox — an open clip or loose bolt. Idle should be smooth and the dash warning-free. If a check-engine light pops up, recheck that nothing got left unplugged around the intake.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Forcing the lid without removing the two 10mm bolts first — the clips alone will not free it and prying cracks the plastic bolt bosses.
  • • Installing the filter rotated the wrong way; it only seals in one orientation, so match the old one exactly.
  • • Skipping the 10mm bolts on reassembly — the lid will buzz and let dust in around the seal.