2005–2010 Scion tC
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
Save $298 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $365
Quick answer: Front Brake Pads Replacement on a 2005–2010 Scion tC is rated Advanced and takes about 60–90 minutes. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $67. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front brake pads (correct for 2005–2010 Scion tC) | — | $43.00 | |
| Brake cleaner | — | $7.00 | |
| High-temp brake grease | — | $17.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Break the lug nuts loose on the ground, then raise the front onto jack stands at the pinch-weld points — never work under a jack alone. Chock the rear wheels and set the parking brake. Remove the front wheels.
Unbolt the caliper and lift it off the rotor — note the guide pins. Hang it from the strut, never by the hose. Check for scoring and measure against the minimum stamped on the rotor hat.
Slide the worn pads out, noting the wear-indicator tabs and shim arrangement — the new pads must go back the same way. If the inner pad is much thinner than the outer, the caliper slides were sticking.
If the inner pad is worn to metal while the outer still has life, I know the slides are the problem — I clean and grease them now, because the new pads will taper the same way.
Open the reservoir cap, press the piston back with a C-clamp. Siphon fluid out first if near full — the piston pushes fluid back up. Press slowly; if it resists, confirm the cap is open and the hose isn't kinked.
I press the piston back slowly and watch the reservoir the whole time — brake fluid eats paint, and I've seen it overflow fast when the last shop topped it off.
Clean the pad channels with brake cleaner and a wire brush so the pads slide freely. Fit the pads with their shims as the old ones sat. Grease the pad backs; keep grease off the friction surfaces.
Refit the caliper over the pads and rotor, torque the bracket bolts to the repair-manual spec — don't guess. Confirm pads and shims sit squarely, the hose routes without twists or wheel contact, then spin the rotor for drag.
Refit the wheels, hand-starting every lug nut to avoid cross-threading, then snug them in a star pattern. Lower the car and torque the lugs to spec — about 76 ft-lb (103 N-m) for the wheels. Recheck after 50 miles.
Pump the brake pedal until firm — it sinks near the floor on the first pump while the piston seats; that's normal. Bed the pads with several moderate 30-mph stops, cooling between. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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