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2011–2016 Scion tC

2011-2016 Scion tC - Battery Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧 Easy 15–25 minutes $140 DIY

Save $140 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $280

Quick answer: Battery Replacement on a 2011–2016 Scion tC is rated Easy and takes about 15–25 minutes. You'll need 4 tools for this job, and parts cost about $140. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$140.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Correct group-size battery — $140.00
Terminal cleaner Optional — $8.00
Terminal protectant Optional — $7.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Pop the hood and look at the front of the driver side

Park the tC on flat ground, kill the engine, pull the key, and set the parking brake. You need a 10mm socket and ratchet for almost everything on this job. Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves before any terminal comes loose.

2

Disconnect the negative terminal first

Find the black negative cable marked with a minus. Loosen its 10mm clamp nut, twist the clamp gently, and pull it up off the post. Tuck the cable back and away so it cannot swing onto the battery.

3

Disconnect the positive terminal

Pop the cap off the red positive terminal, loosen its 10mm clamp nut, and twist the cable up off the post. Lay the cable where it cannot touch the negative post or any bare metal. If a clamp is corroded stuck, wiggle patiently rather than levering with a screwdriver — the posts on this car are not as tough as they look.

4

Unbolt the support bracket and its rod

Loosen the two nuts on top of the battery support bracket and lift the bracket straight up and off. Behind the battery you will find a support rod hooked into a hole in the metal of the firewall — unhook it and pull the rod out. Keep the nuts, the bracket, and the rod together; that rod is easy to forget on the way back in, and the battery should not run without it.

5

Lift the old battery out

Keep it level and expect real weight. With the bracket and rod out of the way, lift the battery straight up out of the engine compartment using both hands.

6

Install the new battery, bracket first then cables

Lower the new battery into the tray with the posts in the same orientation as before. Hook the support rod back into its hole in the firewall, drop the support bracket over the top, and tighten its two nuts. Now the cables in reverse order: positive (+) first, then negative (–) last. Snug each 10mm clamp until the cable cannot be twisted by hand, and pop the red cap back over the positive terminal.

7

Check it over and wrap up

Give the battery a firm shake test with the hood open; if it moves, the bracket isn't tight enough. Start the tC and let it idle a few minutes, then run through the lights, blower, and windows.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Forgetting to hook the support rod back into the firewall hole on reassembly
  • • Losing the two bracket nuts down into the engine bay and driving with a loose battery
  • • Prying corroded clamps off and snapping a post
  • • Reconnecting the cables positive-last instead of negative-last, reversing the safe order