Loosen the front lug nuts
Park your 2011-2014 Chrysler 200 on level ground, set the parking brake, and loosen the front lug nuts with a lug wrench while the wheel is still on the ground.
2011–2014 Chrysler 200
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
Save $296 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $365
Quick answer: Front Brake Pad Replacement on a 2011–2014 Chrysler 200 is rated Moderate and takes about 60–120 minutes per axle. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $69. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front brake pad set (2011-2014 Chrysler 200) | — | $45.00 | |
| Front brake rotors (pair, if replacing) | — | — | |
| Brake hardware/clip kit | — | — | |
| Brake cleaner | — | $9.00 | |
| High-temperature brake grease | — | $15.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Park your 2011-2014 Chrysler 200 on level ground, set the parking brake, and loosen the front lug nuts with a lug wrench while the wheel is still on the ground.
Jack up the front of the vehicle at the factory jack point and secure it on a jack stand placed under the front subframe. Remove the lug nuts completely and pull the front wheel off the hub.
Lift the caliper off the rotor and hang it from the coil spring or strut with a wire hook so the brake hose is not strained.
Slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket and remove the stainless steel hardware clips from the bracket ears. If replacing the rotors, remove the two caliper bracket bolts and lift the bracket and rotor off the hub.
I remove the stainless hardware clips with the pads — I've reused grooved clips before, and the new pads bound up within weeks.
Spray the hub face and caliper bracket with brake cleaner and wipe away rust and dust. If reusing the rotor, check it for scoring and minimum thickness; install the new or resurfaced rotor onto the hub.
I spray the hub with brake cleaner and wipe the rust away — I've seen a rusty hub cause rotor runout, and the cleaning takes a minute.
Reinstall the caliper bracket (if removed) and torque its bolts to spec, then snap the new stainless hardware clips into the bracket ears. Completion looks like fresh hardware and pads ready to slide in without binding.
I snap the new clips in and check the pads slide freely — I've had a pad bind from a misseated clip, and the uneven wear showed within weeks.
Use a C-clamp or brake caliper tool to press the caliper piston straight back into its bore until it is flush. Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood and remove excess fluid if it nears overflowing.
Set the caliper back over the new pads and rotor, then reinstall and tighten the two guide-pin bolts. Confirm the caliper slides smoothly on the pins and the pads sit square against the rotor.
Mount the front wheel, thread the lug nuts on by hand, and lower the vehicle off the jack stand. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the factory specification.
With the engine off, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm and high. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and top off with the correct DOT fluid if needed.
Drive at moderate speed and perform several firm stops from about 30 mph to bed the new pads against the rotors, allowing cooling between stops. Listen for any grinding or squealing that would indicate a problem.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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