2011–2014 Chrysler 200

2011-2014 Chrysler 200 — Engine Air Filter Replacement

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧 Easy 10–15 minutes $35 DIY

Save $75 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $110

Quick answer: Engine Air Filter Replacement on a 2011–2014 Chrysler 200 is rated Easy and takes about 10–15 minutes. You'll need 3 tools for this job, and parts cost about $35. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost

$35.00

Part Name	Part Number	Price	Buy
Engine air filter for 2011-2014 Chrysler 200; verify engine, housing shape, and VIN fitment	—	$35.00	Amazon

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

Identify the JS-platform airbox on the driver's side

Find the airbox with the intake duct to the throttle body, driver side — the 200 shares this layout with the Dodge Avenger. The 2.4L and 3.6L take different panel shapes — buy by exact engine, not model year.

Remove the lid screws and count them

The lid is held by screws, not clips. Back each out into a tray — Phillips #2. They self-tap into plastic: stop the instant each spins free. Never force a seized screw; a stripped boss means the lid never seals.

Give the lid room at the intake duct

If the lid won't lift clear, loosen the duct's hose clamp — just enough to shift the lid. Don't touch the mass airflow sensor's sensing elements or hang the lid from its wiring. Duct routing is tighter on 3.6L cars.

Lift the lid and vacuum the box clean

Lift the lid up and set it filter-side-down. Note the filter's orientation — the 2.4L's flexible panel must sit in the housing's contours. Vacuum the box clean and check screw bosses for cracks; a cracked boss won't hold its screw.

Seat the new filter fully in the lower half

Set the filter in flat, sealing edge fully seated. On the 2.4L the panel conforms without bunching; on the 3.6L it drops in its channel. Press around the perimeter — a filter riding up holds the lid up and whistles.

Refit the lid and snug every screw

Set the lid back on, re-seat the duct, and re-snug its clamp. Thread each screw in by hand a couple of turns, then snug evenly — firm, not tight. Count the screws; a missing one leaves a corner lifted.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

In my experience, Thread every airbox screw by hand before the screwdriver comes out. Cross-threading a screw into a plastic boss feels almost the same as threading it right — until the lid won't seal. Two turns with your fingers, then snug.

Start the engine and verify

Start the 200 and idle, listening for hissing or whistling. A drive should feel normal; if the check-engine light comes on, recheck the MAF connector and duct clamp. Inspect at each oil change; replace when dirty.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Overtightening the lid screws and stripping the plastic bosses
• Buying a filter for the 2015+ second-generation 200 by mistake — a completely different car
• Mixing up the 2.4L and 3.6L elements — they are different shapes
• Leaving the intake duct clamp loose after giving the lid slack