2007–2011 Toyota Camry
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 26, 2026 · Updated Sep 27, 2026
Save $54 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $235
Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2007–2011 Toyota Camry is rated Moderate and takes about 30-60 minutes (4-cylinder); 2-3 hours (V6 with intake plenum removal). You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $181. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
The options below are alternatives for the same part — you only need to buy one. Pick the one that matches your year and engine.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Denso Iridium Long Life Spark Plug SK20R11 (2007-2009 2.4L 2AZ-FE, set of 4) | SK20R11 | $58.00 | |
| Denso Iridium Long Life Spark Plug SC20HR11 (2010-2011 2.5L 2AR-FE, set of 4) | SC20HR11 | $24.00 | |
| Denso Iridium Long Life Spark Plug FK20HR11 (2007-2011 3.5L V6 2GR-FE, set of 6) | FK20HR11 | $98.97 | |
| Intake plenum gaskets, set of 3 (for 3.5L V6 2GR-FE) | — | — | |
| Throttle body gasket (for 3.5L V6 2GR-FE) | — | — |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Compare the options above and order the one that matches your vehicle — you only need one.
Follow these steps carefully
Only change plugs on a fully cooled engine — aluminum heads gall and seize plugs when hot. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm wrench before unplugging the ignition coils.
On the 4-cylinder engines (2.4L 2AZ-FE, 2.5L 2AR-FE), pull the plastic engine cover off — it's held by two 10mm nuts. This exposes the four ignition coil packs sitting directly on the plugs.
Squeeze the lock tab on each coil connector and disconnect it — these connectors are brittle on a 15+ year-old car, so squeeze the tab, never yank the wire. Remove the single 10mm coil bolt and lift each coil out.
Before loosening anything, blast each spark plug well with compressed air (or a shop vacuum) — debris that falls into the cylinder after the plug is out can score the cylinder wall.
Use a 5/8 in (16mm) spark plug socket with an internal rubber insert and a ~6 in extension to remove all four plugs. Inspect the old plugs for oil fouling — a known issue on the oil-burning 2.4L 2AZ-FE.
Confirm each plug's gap is 0.044 in (1.1 mm) with a wire gauge — iridium plugs come pre-gapped, don't re-gap. Do NOT anti-seize NGK or Denso plugs: shell plating plus anti-seize over-torques and strips the head or snaps the plug.
The no-anti-seize rule on NGK and Denso plugs trips up a lot of DIYers — it felt wrong after years of hearing the opposite, but their shell plating plus anti-seize over-torques the plug, and I've seen it strip the head or snap the plug.
Thread each plug in by hand using the extension to avoid cross-threading, then torque to 25 N-m (18 ft-lb), the Toyota factory spec for the 2AZ-FE and 2AR-FE. Ignore the old 13 ft-lb internet figure; the manual says 18 ft-lb.
That 18 ft-lb spec matters — I've learned the old 13 ft-lb figure floating around the internet leaves plugs loose enough to work themselves out, so I trust the service manual, not the forums.
Seat each coil back on its plug, torque the coil bolts to 9.0 N-m (80 in-lb), reconnect the electrical connectors until the tabs click, replace the engine cover, and reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Start the engine — it should idle smooth. Test drive and confirm smooth acceleration. If the check engine light comes on, scan for misfire codes (P0300-P0304). Replace all four plugs; don't mix old and new.
On the 3.5L V6 (2GR-FE), the front three plugs match above, but the rear bank sits under the intake plenum. Book method: remove the cowl and plenum, replacing the three plenum gaskets and throttle body gasket. Budget 2-3 hours.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2007–2011
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