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2015–2017 Chrysler 200

2015-2017 Chrysler 200 — Oil and Filter Change

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026

🔧 Easy 30–60 minutes $59 DIY

Save $115 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $174

Quick answer: Oil and Filter Change on a 2015–2017 Chrysler 200 is rated Easy and takes about 30–60 minutes. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $59. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$59.00
Oil spec 2.4L Tigershark I4 (ED6/ED8, most common 2015-2017; 3.6L Pentastar V6 option: 5.9 qt, 5W-20, MS-6395)
Capacity 5.5 qt with filter Viscosity 0W-20 Spec Chrysler MS-6395
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
0W-20 full synthetic engine oil (5.5 quarts) — $43.00
Oil filter (2015-2017 Chrysler 200 2.4L) — $12.00
Drain plug gasket/washer — $4.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Warm the engine and park safely

Start your 2015-2017 Chrysler 200 with the 2.4L Tigershark engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes to warm the oil so it drains fully.

2

Raise the vehicle and remove the undercover

Drive the front wheels onto ramps or lift the front with a jack and secure it on jack stands. If your 200 has a plastic engine undercover, remove its fasteners and lower it to access the oil pan and filter.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I keep the undercover fasteners together — I've mixed them up on a 200 before, and the leftover fastener always nags at me.

3

Remove the drain plug and drain the oil

Place a drain pan under the oil pan drain plug on the bottom of the 2.4L engine. Using the correct socket, loosen the drain plug and finish removing it by hand, keeping pressure inward until the threads release.

4

Locate the filter and position the drain pan

While the oil drains, locate the spin-on oil filter on the 2.4L engine and position the drain pan beneath it. Completion looks like the old filter removed with the mounting surface wiped clean.

5

Install the new oil filter

Apply a thin film of fresh 0W-20 oil to the rubber gasket of the new oil filter. Completion looks like the filter snug and hand-tight with no tools used.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I oil the gasket and go hand-tight — I've seen an overtightened filter crush its gasket and weep, and hand-tight has never failed me.

6

Reinstall the drain plug

Clean the drain plug, fit a new crush washer or gasket, and thread it back into the oil pan by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten it firmly with a wrench but do not overtighten the aluminum pan threads.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I thread it by hand and stop at firm — I've stripped aluminum pan threads overtightening before, and the repair bill stung.

7

Add the new engine oil

Lower the vehicle off the ramps or stands, open the hood, and remove the engine oil filler cap on the valve cover. Pour in 5.5 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic oil using a funnel to avoid spills.

8

Check the level and inspect for leaks

Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds while you inspect the drain plug and filter for leaks underneath. Completion looks like the dipstick at full and no leaks visible.

9

Reset the oil indicator and verify

Take a short drive, then recheck the dipstick and look under the car for any new drips. Completion looks like the indicator reset to 100% and the oil level still at full.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Overfilling the 2.4L beyond 5.5 quarts, which can cause oil aeration and leaks.
  • • Forgetting to lubricate the new filter's rubber gasket, leading to a stuck or leaking filter.
  • • Stripping the drain plug by overtightening it into the aluminum oil pan.